If you had visited Province in Chinatown before it closed then you would be very familiar with mantaos. If not, I will do my best to explain them. Mantaos are pretty much Chinese sandwiches and after watching Vietnamese, Cambodian, Mexican and even Thai sandwiches stake their claim in Manhattan hipsterville why should we be surprised at a Chinese offering? They aren’t large in size (somewhere along the lines of an arepa but with much less density) and the bread/bun is light and fluffy, close to a cross between an English muffin and the dough David Chang uses at the Momofuku empire to make those heavenly pork buns. Manto (which has the same owners as Province) opened up on East 53rd street which has certainly become a little bit of a restaurant row for this odd quasi-midtown street (Brick House Curry and about ten other restaurants run the length of the avenue.) The space is small and refined with a clean tiny dining area kitchen in the back. I came in a Saturday and it seemed like there was one woman manning (no pun intended) the register and preparing the food, I took the combo box ($9.95) and a watermelon juice to go ($3.50). The combo box allows you to pick any two sandwiches on the menu and includes a small side and bag of shrimp chips. I choose “the original manto pork bun (pictured)” and “angus beef burger with spicy sambal sauce”
I really didn’t love either of the sandwiches finding both too dry but preferring the Angus beef burger which if it was a little more juicy probably would have been pretty good. As you can see there wasn’t the much pork on the original bun and what meat was there tasted a little bit leathery. I’ve heard that the fried egg mantao with Chinese bacon is pretty good so if I ever return it will probably be to try that.
The shrimp chips tasted like they always do and the salad was a standard side size. I did like the vinegrette that came with it very much. I love Watermelon juice and Mantao’s was excellent and pulpy, busrting with fresh watermelon flavor.
Like it’s dead relative Province, Mantao seems to be on the cusp of something special but is struggling, trying to find out how to get there.
Mantao – 235 East 53rd Street (Between 2nd and 3rd Avenues) NY 10022, (212) 888-2490
Filed under: Chinese Food, Uncategorized Tagged: | Angus Beef Burger, Chinese Bacon, Chinese Sandwiches, Mantao, Pork Bun, Spicy Sambal Sauce, Watermelon juice
